I was wondering if anyone knew the answer to my question at what size wave is the tipping point does wave measurement reverts from classic standard rubbery Hawaiian imperial back to plain old school boys feet and inches.
It seems if you paddle into a wave you are always subjected to the Hawaiian measure where to catch a wave over 5 ft means you are riding some semi monster at least double over head. It does not seem to matter what size you are a midget or a hulking viking if it’s double over lets call it 5 ft. Some in this instance very few surfers ever come near catching a legit 8 foot wave which is pretty demoralizing when in conversation with polite society, when some one who has been surfing for less than 18 months starting rabbiting on about the 10 foot surf they were out in, when you know 4 foot is closer to the truth. Do you bite you lip and let them carry on or do you use the same terms of measure to tell your story.
Now that isn’t really the question, this is. Now these days you see a lot of this non sensible tow surfing on super big waves, but they seem to be able to skip this whole Hawaiian super macho measurement stuff and measure the wave in littoral feet top to bottom with a ruler, none of this old school stuff of from the back, for them a foot is a foot, not a measure that goes all the way up your waist.
So a 10 to 12 foot day at Sunset is way terrifying in nearly every humans terms, but some lucky ones are already calling it 20 ft plus, so at what stage is the cut that you can breathe a sigh of relief and know your still not surfing signal digits and be able to have a semi impressive story at the bar that night.
PS pic 1 is Cheyne Horan on a wave he placed 2nd on in the big wave awards this was measured in literal ft and they called it something like 60 ft.
Pic 2 is Munga Barry droppimg into an elevator shaft drop at Sunset beach this is an example of a 10 to 12 ft Hawaiian measure wave.