Well as they say there is one certainty in life and that is you aint getting out of here alive, it may sound morbid but it seems to be true. Ok so you’re a surfer of note and you have had some media exposure over your time, so there are some people who may like to read about your passing to the long point rides in the sky. Now this is where your problems start dying is the easy part, the thing is there is going to probably be a obituary to you somewhere in a surf periodical, that’s all well and good but if you are thinking like many aging legends it would be nice to have some words said in the premier of magazines The Surfers Journal. Every issue they run a few obituaries to significant people who have moved on which is noble, let me stop here and say I am a very long time subscriber to The Surfers Journal and feel they do a grand job of putting out a fine magazine 6 times a year with a wide variety of articles and writers.
That stated if there is one thing that I find challenging in the Magazine and that is the obituaries, if you are unlucky enough to have Steve Pezman pen your last lines before you move on don’t expect a pat on the back and a few nice sentences spoken on your behalf for your fan base and loved one to cherish. Lets say I have found him a very hard task master when it comes to summing up someones life in a couple of paragraphs, you are being judged in this situation and it against his values and his code and the chance of being dealt with respect is thin, that is my warning to you. But there are some ways to turn the tables on all this and I would like to point them out to you so your transition will be smoother than Keith Paull’s cutback.
Have surfed the North Shore in the early 60s
Think Phil Edwards was the man and profess to him being an influence.
Have a couple of Dora stories from the early days
Have been a rebel rouser when young but by 25 you had settled down and made MONEY.
Didnt spend too much time in Foreign lands especially 3rd world countries
Married within your own gene pool, stayed married.
occasionally showed up to legends gathering just to say hello
Have a high regard for Dale Velzy, Joe Quigg and Mickey Munoz.
Doesnt matter if you gave up surfing 30 yrs ago, if you still ski or sail that’s fine.
Having spent time on Maui during the Summer of Love is ok, but no drugs
Surfed Malibu pre Gidget
You once had a Woodie, were a team rider for anyone but Weber surfboards, you didn’t drop out, you can talk about alternative lifestyle but you were not involved, if you did time when you got out you made money.
This is by no means a slander just a light-hearted look at 20 yrs of journal reading.