This is Shiho she is from Japan and now is married to my good friend Paul and now she is good friend. Now one day Shiho thought she would like to surf, well no worries everyone starts some time. Only one thing is out whack here she’s with Shmackle and he loves to surf but the waves he likes all involves tubes now everyone likes hollow waves no new thing. But Paul takes this barrel shit to a new level desire, so if you are with me you surf with me no pussy footing.
So from day one there was never a day on a pink soft board, never a mellow beachbreak or a soft rolling sand bottom point in warm Queensland water no siree. Paul would say lets go surf we going to jump off these rocks and paddle out to sea to that god forsaken Bombie, you’re going to love it unreal barrels out there. Cactus in jimmy’s Panel van with 2 seats means you got to lie in the back and throw the blanket over you when the cops pull us over in Ceduna not make a sound play dead. By the way we going to look up the Moose(Australia’s most feared local) and there could be some desert wheat involved ok. Yeah no problem there will be great tubes at Black’s near Elliston, it’s a left your goofy you will love it. Sure she survived that just in time to be informed I got a job to Ireland for winter, 3×2 steamer should be fine we will be in the south of the Ireland, it’s the Indo of Europe he told her. Then it was off to Dakar where Paul heard there were heaps of empty reef barrels and living was cheap real cheap no food actually down there, and definitely no sushi train for 3000 miles, and on and on you get the idea. That was basic training Smackle style short thruster the whole time no fun board shit there no good in the pit he would tell her. It was a sado masochist surf apprenticeship, nothing you would ever encounter in a Roxy commercial, more like Blue Crush set at Mavericks.
Fast forward to present day, Shiho’s living on the Gold Coast surfing D bar daily and loving it, this is her paradise. If only the other surfers in the water there had any idea what she had to endure to become a surfer, she did the green berets course and passed in flying colours, most would not have made it through but she got more stoke than most.
She fast tracked Lopez’s words, of 20yrs you just know she will be a lifer in the game of surf.
Top pic, learning to find a barrel in Tanagashima, Japan. Below getting away from a great white shark at Cactus.