Nias 1978, Surfer Magazine.

I remember seeing this photo for the first time over at my mates Myron’s house he used to have enough money to buy all the Magazines. For me this photo redefined everything I thought I knew about surfing, it was the first glimpse into to what Nias was all about and then what potential Sumatra had to offer. Sure I knew there were great waves in Bali I had seen movies and photos but this was almost too perfect to be real, no wind no one out a right-hander. I thought there were only lefts in Indonesia, I guess it is the only wave there, there couldn’t be any others could there. I was 15 and thought I knew what was up, big perfect waves only happened in Hawaii and that is that, and then this showed up, better than anything I had ever seen, in a place I havent heard of it was almost too much to deal with.

This photo made me realize I knew nothing, but one thing I did know and that was i wanted to get my ass out of this crappy shore break and catch one of those babies.

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This entry was posted in Retro, Surfing, Surfing Lifestyle and tagged , , . Bookmark the permalink.

One Response to Nias 1978, Surfer Magazine.

  1. Bukit Bear says:

    Iconic shot… A period when Indo’s full potential was still (in part) a mystery… How times have changed..

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